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Sleepy Salento, Quindío, Colombia

  • Gerard McGarrigle
  • Aug 25, 2017
  • 5 min read

Salento is a location like no other, I have travelled to many countries, cities and towns but nothing compares to Salento's sleepy vibe and positive energy. Its difficult to explain but it feels like the town itself emits an energy that simply captivates you and draws you into a wave of tranquility. Its character is charming and handsome but very humble at the same time. It moves at a slow and steady pace but that's all part of its personality, you don't get mad at it you just accept it and love it for that. If you can imagine a human being, content with the simple things in life, good looking, trustworthy, incredibly friendly, non judgemental, open minded, relaxed, almost too relaxed, full of positivity, no interest in designer products and animal friendly then that's Salento. Salento wasn't born into this world to be popular but as human ideology has evolved and our understanding of what's really important, from a spirituality perspective, Salento has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Colombia. This little town, born from humble beginnings, dating back to the 1800's attracts thousands of visitors every year. Not only has it got a great atmosphere but it has lots of activities for visitors to participate in too. Horse riding, trekking and hiking, mountain biking, ziplining, coffee farms, restaurants and bars. It's a very special place that continues to welcome everyone and anyone.


My first visit to Salento wasn't a life changing experience by any means, it was a few years ago, back in 2012, when Carolina and I spent a short holiday in Colombia visiting her family during which we made a trip to Salento one late afternoon. I'm sure it was a Sunday as it was busy that day, I don't recall seeing any foreign tourists but there were plenty of Colombian's enjoying themselves. We visited the viewpoint before drinking a coffee as the sun descended. Roger, my brother in-law, explained that Salento was once a typical colonial coffee town but was quickly becoming a tourist hot spot. I didn't understand what all the fuss was about, it looked like an old little town with little to do. My fleeting experience in Salento that afternoon wasn't enough to fully appreciate its ambience or its unique energetic vibe. Salento is different, as Roger pointed out to me many years ago, it was becoming a touristic hot spot, not just in Eje Cafetero but was being recognised as a place to visit as one of the top spots in all of Colombia. Tourists from all over the globe pour in and out not to just visit Salento and meet up with other tourists, sharing stories and experiences but it's also the gateway to Cocora Valley and one of the entry points towards 'Los Nevados'. A mystical landscape filled with unique flora and fauna, where you can spend days on end trekking and hiking the territory that ever changes with the alternating altitudes. Like most Colonial towns in Eje Cafetero, Salento comprises of a town plaza with a church at its focal point where streets and neighbourhoods all eventually lead to. The architecture is of Spanish origin where its economy was mainly dependant on coffee and farming produce.

Cocora Valley, Salento, Quindio, Colombia, Eje Cafetero

But Salento offers something different than what other Colonial towns offer and for me it's best experienced on a weekday where the traffic of people is much less. Stepping inside Salento is like stepping into an alternative dimension. It's very much aware that it exists in the present but it has yet to catch up with the present. Like a lazy dog sleeping all day and getting old doing so, it lets life slip by without a care in the world and in doing so its content and relaxed. That's Salento, it's energy and vibe is so relaxed that it's uplifting, it washes away stress allowing you to put aside your better judgements and just relax and float along its hypnotic haze.

Salento, Quindio, Colombia, Eje Cafetero

Salento is the oldest town in Quindío, established in 1842. After the 'Guerra de los Supremos', Simón Bolívar felt the route from Popayán to Bogotá needed to be repaired and upgraded, he believed the route had an important strategic military role and ordered political prisoners be sent to carry out the work required. Once these political prisoners finished their sentence they were assigned plots of land around the territory, where 'Barcinales' was born, before being renamed to 'Boquía', (after the original Boquía was destroyed by a flood) and then to Salento. As time progressed the road from Popayán to Bogotá was re-routed and so Salento became isolated and never evolved like other towns within Quindío, in doing so it continues to hold onto its original look and feel, giving you the impression that it's stuck in the past. But after been forgotten about for so many years, Salento is firmly back on the map. No longer part of a strategic military route as Simón Bolívar believed but as a strategic route for tourists and keen visitors. Ironically vehicles known as Willys Jeeps used in WWll to transport soldiers and military supplies now line up in the square to transport tourists to Cocora Valley and surrounding coffee farms. Their colours adding further to the town's vibrant ambience and charm.

Salento's appearance and vibe give you the impression that it's stuck in the past, the town's buildings still holding onto the original colonial architecture, clay tiled roofs and balconies painted in an array of wonderful colours . The sounds of music long lost on the new generations still radiates from side streets and buildings keeping the towns originality intact.

Salento, Quindio, Colombia, Eje Cafetero

But and this is a big but, Salento is way ahead in terms of modern dietary needs. Salento has seen a huge influx of international tourists, some of whom have stayed and setup restaurants that cater for modern standards and needs, specifically for vegetarians and vegans. Similar colonial towns are not used to these dietary requirements and serve what is typical for the local Colombian, but not Salento. If you are vegetarian or vegan then Salento is a great place to visit and have a bite to eat.


The main town square is surrounded by tall palm trees and plants where you can sit on a bench and watch the world go by. Buy an ice-cream, coffee or snack from the small vendors that are located close by and just allow yourself to slow down and relax. Located in the Andean mountain range, its fresh mountain air helps to revive you physically while your mind is allowed to wonder.

Salento, Quindio, Colombia, Eje Cafetero

The outskirts of Salento are littered with hostels but the main street that runs just off the town plaza is littered with boutiques, where Colombian families still live, selling handcrafted products, souvenirs, artwork and more. You'll also find some nice places to have a drink or coffee as you watch people coming and going. At the end of the street you can climb the 250 steps to the viewpoint, where you can watch the willys jeeps coming and going to Cocora Valley like an army of ants and on a clear day, view some of the Mountain range of Los Nevados.

Salento, Quindio, Colombia, Eje Cafetero

We always try to take advantage of our time in Salento, it's a place where stress is not allowed to exist, where the friendly locals greet you with a warm smile, their relaxed demeanor making you feel more at home by the minute. Its a charming place where you can easily spend a day simply strolling around at a slow pace because there's simply no rush. It's a place that offers more than meets the eye, opening doorways to unique locations like Cocora Valley, a place that has to be seen to be believed. Of course we always indulge in a coffee or two before departing, when in Rome, do as the Romans do...

 
 
 

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