Fabulous Filandia, Colombia

Filandia meaning 'daughter of the Andes' is also known as "The Illuminated Hill of the Andes". The twisting and winding road that leads towards the town eventually opens up and gives you the chance to see it from a distance as you approach. The town sits high on top of a hill with its church standing head and shoulders above the surrounding buildings like a watchtower letting you know that it's seen you before you've seen it.

Filandia holds a special place in our hearts, it's the location where Carolina's mother was born and grew up as a child, her own father was also born in the town, a descendant of the original cultivators who arrived from Antioquia in search of wealth and fortune. It was the setting for the tv series from the early 90's, 'Cafe, con aroma de mujer' and it's the second oldest town in Quindio lying in the shadow of it's older sibling, Salento, when it comes to tourist visitors.

While Filandia doesn't share the fame that Salento does, some would say its the better looking sibling. Like Salento, it's traditionally a colonial coffee town, sharing the same genetic gene pool of architecture style and rainbow colours. It's economy is driven by coffee and in recent years, tourism too.

It consists of a town plaza where the streets and neighbourhoods all eventually lead to however its focal point, the large blue and white coloured church with three domed shaped columns stretching from its roof, catches your eye and is certainly more attractive looking than Salento's brown, single domed church.

The plaza is of similar size to Salento's but again it's more attractive looking, the plantlife and flowers making it feel warmer and more appealing with their saturated array of colours, exploding more brightly on a sunny day. Birds sing in delight and butterflies dance and flutter around the plaza and among the streets creating a heavenly experience.

The buildings that surround the plaza that would have once housed local families and coffee farmers are now home to hostels, restaurants, cafe's and bars. Even the house where Carolina's mother grew up in is now a restaurant, catering for the needs of modern times. They sit closer to the plaza, their colours adding to the vibrancy and making it all feel much more connected and social.

Unlike Salento where 'Willys Jeeps' are used for bringing tourists to Cocora Valley and surrounding coffee farms, the Willys in Filandia you see entering and exiting the town are still being used as they have since the late 1940's, transporting coffee and farming produce from farm to the town and back again. It makes the town feel much more authentic and real.

Filandia has a better reputation for coffee quality as the surrounding coffee farms lie at an altitude slightly more elevated than Salento's, averaging at roughly 1,850m above sea level (The town's elevation is 1,923m above sea level) and yes, altitude does have an impact on coffee flavour. The plaza makes a great location to visit one of the many cafe's that surround it, find one where you can sit in the shade and relax with a delicious coffee and slice of cake. Simply indulge in a conversation with friends, family or even sit alone while watching people coming and going, allowing it's ambience to help you relax and soothe away your troubles.

The plaza has a better buzz than Salento's because the surrounding buildings are closer to the area, like a football stadium where fans sit closer to the pitch, it just feels like there is a slightly faster tempo than Salento and it's because this is where most of the activity is happening in Filandia. You can happily walk around the side streets of Filandia, the people are friendly and welcoming. The locals go about their business and offer a "muy buenos dias", when passing by as though you'd been living in the town all your life and were always a part of the community. It offers the opportunity to see another side of the town where life is real and how the locals live here. The pace is slow and relaxed with the odd local working with some urgency.

Filandia has two lookout points, one that is located in the town and the other is a large construction, about 1.5km from the town itself. Both have great views but the larger Mirador requires a slightly more demanding walk and climb. Anyone with mobility difficulties may choose to avoid the climb up the structure. It gives a greater view of Quindio and Eje Cafetero however, where you can see Pereira, Armenia, Quimbaya, Montenegro and much more. Your eyes can span the territory once belonging to the superior goldsmiths and indigenous tribe known as the Quimbaya and on a clear day the view stretches towards Los Nevados.

When on route to the larger mirador you'll see a number of small businesses where the old age tradition of hand made basket making is still practiced. On full display will be numerous designs catered for storing dried coffee, grain, rice and other household goods.

While Salento holds the key to Cocora Valley and is the gateway to many hikes and treks among Los Nevados. Filandia holds the key to lots of nature walks in the surrounding forests including 'Bosque Barbas de Bremen', where a large variety of native birdlife, flora and fauna exist including the red howler monkey.

You can learn more about our experience in Bosque Barbas de Bremen and our encounter with the red howler monkeys here

It almost feels like there is a sibling rivalry between Filandia and Salento, each competing for their parents approval, while indiduals favour one over the other. Salento achieving lots of fame whereas Filandia's good looks has captivated the heart of many a passer by. Each has their own set of attributes and charm but their is no hatred or bitterness towards each other, there is no love lost between them. Just like blood relatives, their love for each other is deeper and more meaningful than to be jealous over the other's merits. As a visitor you almost feel a parents pang when asked "which one do you love the most?", you don't, you can't choose one over the other because they both bring you happiness. You love them both the same but for different reasons...

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